So thankful for low speed and it being more than sufficient for our pool.
On low speed, only uses 2.6 amps…not bad!!!
Just bought new chlorine…will be interesting to see how this stuff compares. Will test tonight when I do my daily chlorine (will test) before, add amount per pool calculator, and then test in an hour later and see how close we get to 8.0ppm.
We use the pool everyday, even on rainy days, can’t beat it!!!
That’s great to hear! It should give you many years of great times and wonderful memories!
NEW chlorine is LEGIT 12.5%
Makes a huge difference. Nice to get predictable results with pool calculator!!!
So…looks like we’re losing around 2.4 PPM…so I add 32 oz of the good stuff to get it up to around 6.4-6.6 at night…and by sunset the next day, it’s back down to around 4.
I think that’s pretty good…little less than two gallons a week. Once these last two tablets are dissolved, we’ll be good with CYA. Be interesting to see how much additional chlorine I’ll have to add as a result.
We’re doing good though…no complaints…
I’m a pro at the following TAYLOR TESTS:
Free Chlorine
Combined Chlorine
Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
CYA
pH
I have no desire to test for Bromine. I haven’t tested for phosphates yet…I’m not even sure if the Taylor does test for it…
Couldn’t imagine living without a Taylor kit now…
Meh. You won’t have bromine in your pool unless you use it instead of chlorine, which I would not recommend.
There is a reason that the Taylor pool test kits do not have a phosphate test included. A well-sanitized and well-maintained pool will not grow algae no matter what the phosphate level is (unless you accidentally drop a bag of fertilizer in your pool or have storm runoff from a well-fertilized yard go into your pool). In those cases, you may be better off draining the pool or re-grading your lawn to avoid the runoff.
Pool owners who get storm runoff may want to check their pool for phosphates once or twice a year. We do carry phosphate remover if phosphate levels are over 1000ppb, but 99% of inground pool owners will never need it and 100% of above-ground pool owners will never need it.
I’m finally satisfied with my CYA reading of 30 I’m getting on the Taylor kit. The floaters are back out. Losing 2-3ppm of chlorine is fine in my book…Always staying between 3.4-7.0. These seem like good numbers in relation to my CYA.
Ok…makes sense regarding bromine and phosphate level.
Like you said, it’s a lot easier as time went on. Before, I was petrified of the Taylor kit, now I couldn’t imagine not having one.
Thanks again for everything!!!
Rich,
Since we’re running our pump on low 24/7…cost hasn’t impacted us much…my follow up question…will running it only during the day extend the longevity of the pump? In other words, if I set the pump turn turn off 9PM - 7AM…will that break extend the longevity or the pump or are these pumps made to run 24/7 regardless…
How does the shelf life of a pump work? Obviously, we’ll store it dry in the basement during the off season, but what helps to get the most life out of a hayward super pump?
Thanks
Good question - I’ll give you my thoughts, but there are more than a few X-factors to affect motor longevity:
Running the pump at the lower speed should help it last longer. The motor will not get as hot as running it at full speed. Running the pump for less than 24/7 should help it last longer as well. Keeping it dry (installing a cover and keeping it out of the elements) should help it last longer as well. Taking it inside for the winter is a great idea and will also help it. Monitor the seals and replace them if you see a leak on the pump since a leak will eventually destroy the motor bearings.
The items that poop out on a motor are the start capacitors or run capacitors, the windings, or the bearings. The capacitors and bearings are replaceable but it’s time to replace the motor if the windings short or open.
Many folks comment on motor life - as in the older ones that were made domestically seem to have lasted longer than the ones made in Mexico and they lasted longer than the ones that are now made in Asia. That’s difficult to quantify/validate, but there are a number of parts in a motor and, regardless of where it was manufactured and if the machine operator was having a bad day, you may or may not get the life that you hope to get out of a modern replacement motor. Keep it clean and dry and watch it for leaks and you will get the best life out of it that you can hope for.
Most replacement motors sold by Inyo Pools have a 12-month warranty and most variable-speed motors have an 18-month warranty serviced by us. We hope it never happens, but we stand behind them in case the unthinkable happens.
Great feedback! Thank you for the prompt reply!!
This may be a stupid question…
hypothetical situation. With the same CYA for all situation …
Would the pool lose at the same rate for
a) 10ppm - 7ppm
b) 7ppm - 4ppm
c) 4ppm - 1ppm
In other words does chlorine burn off at the same rate, regardless of what level it is at?
The short answer is theoretically yes with all things being the same (water quality, water temperature, sun exposure) - but here is the long answer. 
Think of CYA (Stabilizer) as sunscreen for chlorine. Chlorine will burn off from the sun at a much slower rate with a CYA of 60 than it will for a CYA of 30 but, to properly sanitize a pool, you will need more PPM of chlorine at the higher CYA concentration than you will at a lower CYA concentration. If you have too much CYA you can create
chlorine lock where the chlorine will be unable to do it’s job. Knowing how to test your CYA levels will ensure your pool stays crystal-clear.
Higher levels of stabilizer are recommended for pools with a saltwater chlorine generator since the generators are great at maintaining chlorine levels but may not be able to keep up with the amount that the sun will consume.
Your pool’s chlorine use will change throughout the year - pool parties will use more chlorine and the sun will eat more or less as the days get longer and shorter. It will volatilize more in warmer water than in cooler water. Rain won’t use it but it can dilute the concentration of chlorine and other chemicals.
I like to keep my chlorine levels at the higher end of the recommended scale to keep algae away. Any level under a SLAM level is safe to swim in.
Check out our article on The Relationship Between Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid if you want to read a lot more on the subject and see a chart for recommended levels.
Thanks again, Rich. I’m trying to educate myself as much as I can. I go to 6.4/6.6 at CYA 30…sunset we’re at 3.2…sometimes a little less, sometimes a little more…just curious if i should aim to start at 5, 6, or 7…but I think 6.4/6.6 is a good spot.
I’ve been keeping a chart to track my levels for chlorine…
I went to a different pool store to get chlorine, and they sold the same brand Crystal Aqua…and the batch I got was ‘garbage’ too…acting like it’s 8.4%…the one pool store that sells 12.5% that has good chlorine (acts like 12.5% is also the most expensive)…if I did my math correctly, the Walmart 10% chlorine is best bang for the buck
1 Gallon at 10% will raise my pool (13550 gal) l 7.3 ppm at a rate of 77.7 cents per ppm ($5.67)
1 Gallon of Crystal Aqua 12.5% will raise my pool 9.1 ppm at a rate of 82.4 cents per ppm ($7.50) — and it doesn’t even act like 12.5%
1 Gallon of 12.5% of GOOD stuff …rate is 93.4 cents per ppm ($8.50)
Tis is life…all is well!!! Getting the hang of things…Evaporation is starting to occur more and more…losing up to an 1/8" overnight…no solar cover…feel like it would be a big pain.
Had to add a little muriatic acid (less than 10 oz) a few times to keep pH at 7.5, alkalinity hovering in the 90ppm.
Starting to enjoy the daily maintenance. Some people take pride in their cars, I’m starting to do the same with this pool. A lot of great memories are being made.
I appreciate all the help. Been a lifesaver!
A new hiccup…got the pool guy coming…not catastrophic, but has affirmed our decision to get new liner and new skimmer for next season…
hairline crack too (ordered Plast-aid)
Not shocking as you can see from the skimmer slat…hoping to get that replaced too …we knew this area had troubles…
Rich,
You think this could this be cutdown at the bottom to become 48"?
Yep! Just be sure the skimmer you have (and/or the new skimmer) will fit it.
Note that most of the Esther Williams pools have a different liner bead than normal, so be sure the new liner has the Esther Williams bead (assuming yours has that style).
I saw INYO video on how to figure out what skimmer I have and hopefully that will help me find a replacement…Thanks!!!
Skimmers…so I got an old one…I can’t find any identifying numbers or models to it…They don’t make universal skimmers…Any tips on not screwing up and purchasing a correct sized one?
Just measure the opening and bolt pattern and check that against anything you replace it with to be sure they are the same. You don’t want to have to cut your new panel!
Post a drawing of your bolt pattern (with dimensions, of course) if you’d like us to look for it.
