Dear All:
Never owned a pool until Aug 2023. The house we bought had a vintage 1980’s esther williams pool that looked to be in fairly decent shape. I have two young girls so we were hoping to have a pool this summer.
Old owners lefted the busted up .75hp Hayward Pump (inground) from circa late 90’s. Sand filter was busted. Pool guy that neighbor recommended said to try to get a similar pump for the pool. I couldn’t find a .75 HP pump from Hayward…people said AboveGround pool pumps breakdown quicker, and to find something similar…so I found this…sp2607x102s dual speed pump
Brought the outlet to code, and got it 240v for the pump.
New pool guy installed pump and sand filter incorrectly. Pump had a leak up top and he used a cracked part on the brand new 18" Sand filter, causing it to leak. Now, we’re scrambling to find someone who can install correctly right in the thick of pool season.
Is this pump too powerful or will run well…when we get it installed correctly, I will run on high until we see clear blue, but once it’s up and running I think I’ll be able to run it on low speed.
Is there anything I need for the pump to be installed correctly that does not come with the box (e.g. couplings? Unions? clamps?) — I’m just throwing buzz words around that I have read…but curious if everything comes with it…i was shocked when the pump arrived and there was no cord (so that’s why I ask)…the electrician had to add a new cord.
Last but not least…anyone know where I can get a couple Top Coping Covers for the EW pool!!! TeddyBearPools does not have them.
Thank you!
Hi Esther, and welcome!
The pump you purchased is a little powerful for most 18" sand filters (generally the pump is sized to the filter which is sized to the pool). Just run it at the lower speed and you will be fine. You will also save on your electric use.
We would recommend getting a couple unions to make installation and servicing a little easier. Most of the other items you may need will be available at your local home center (Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, Home Depot). Most above-ground pools use 1-1/2" plumbing so you may need a reducer since your new pump should have 2" ports (note that older models have 1-1/2" ports so double-check before ordering anything for it).
Keep us updated!
Thanks…
These unions work?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-2-in-x-2-in-x-2-in-dia-x-4-in-L-Union-PVC-Fitting/50160567
Can we still use Flex PVC hosing, or must go all rigid?
Should we just then run it on low the entire time…any specific time, use it on high speed?
Those unions will work in the plumbing but will not directly attach to the pump. The pump has regular pipe thread on the ports but the pump unions are the more appropriate union to get. Note that they have an o-ring to complete the seal.
You can use flex PVC as long as you get a few of the proper barbed adapters for it. However you do it, be sure that it is easy to winterize if you are in a cold climate.
You can try the pump on high speed but watch the pressure gauge on the filter (the maximum pressure for it is probably around 45-50 PSI). If it gets beyond specifications then only run it at low speed. I’m cheap, so I only recommend running the pump at the minimum amount of time to turn the pool water over at least 1 time per day. A 24’ round pool has about 14,000 gallons of water, so with your pump at low speed, I would start running it for 7 hours a day. If you have issues (tree debris or other dirt) you can always increase that.
New pool guy came…did a beautiful job. Purring like a kitten. At high speed, it started like at 17 PSI, but after a few minutes at high speed it was at 26 PSI, and is staying there.
Everything is tight sealed, looks and sounds great. PSI appropriate !!! Water is moving nicely…I think it needs to get ugly before pretty…it went from cloudy blue to dirty green/brown. The pool hasn’t been opened in 3 years.
I tink we’re moving in the right direction. We’re going to shock the pool tonight, and see where we stand tomorrow…just want to make sure 26 PSI is kosher…we’re on high speed…told to run 24/7 until it clears…
What PSI should we stop to backwash…been pumping on high for almost 2 hours now…
Thank you!
So I’m wondering if the PSI is this high because the pool floor was extremely filthy and lots of debris…before we got the filter and pump running…it was cloudy blue…now that things are moving, it’s back to getting ugly…just wondering if we should continue to let the pump run…been almost 4 hours now…staying steady at 26 PSI…we shocked the pool tonight, so we can’t backwash for a bit…is this normal for a first time open in 3 years…also it’s brand new sand…any guidance would be appreciated. Thank you!!!
That’s not abnormal, especially if the pool hasn’t been used in 3 years.
Generally, backwash the filter when the pressure gauge reads 10PSI more than it does when it is clean. Your filter is new so give it a little time to settle; if 17 is indeed the baseline “Clean” PSI then backwash it at 27PSI.
The most important thing for you now is to keep it well chlorinated and circulating. Low speed will be just as good as high speed, especially if it is on 24/7. Keep the chlorine at shock level until it is clean and clear and the CL level doesn’t drop at all overnight . There is no need to add anything else - just give the chlorine a few days to do it’s thing and you will be swimming in a clean, clear pool in no time!
Rich,
I appreciate you sooooo much. Hard to get a true baseline. It climbed pretty fast. We put two bags of shock in, just playing the wait game…i can’t wait to see the bottom as I know there must be all kinds of things there…found a badminton racket before…by the time we moved into the house, the cover was probably 15 years old, ripped…so tons of crap could sneak in.
I’ll keep you posted on how we’re doing!!!
Thank you!!!
Another question, I hope you don’t mind…is there any time we would want to use Hi speed with our configuration?
Our current situation at high speed: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/jbVbs7fCL-M
Please advise…Thanks again!!!
We are happy to help!
I’m not sure I would use high speed at all, unless you get a great electric rate. Slow and steady will win the race.
You mentioned using a couple of bags of shock. That’s a good start but you will really need to get the chlorine levels up higher and maintain the higher shock level, since the shock will quickly get used up in a green pool. Pools with no stabilizer in them need at least a 10 ppm level of chlorine maintained 24/7 to kill the algae. I would highly recommend getting a good test kit with a stirrer and using plain, cheap, unscented, unthickened liquid bleach to get your chlorine levels up to where they need to be. Otherwise you won’t make much progress at all since you need to kill the algae and not just trap it in the filter. Follow the instructions we have here for cleaning a green pool but, since you have a sand filter, only add chlorine and do NOT add flocculant or anything else.
At some point in time you will need to add stabilizer so the sun doesn’t eat the chlorine up but hold off on that until the water starts to clear up and you find the other badminton racquet and maybe a birdie (not a real bird - just the one from the badminton game!).
Roger 10-4 on high speed. Makes sense. I’m a patient guy, so I can handle that. This morning it was blue and cloudy, so the green is gone.
I have a Taylor K-2006c kit coming in from Amazon any day now.
How much chlorine should we add tonight? Test the water and go from there?
I wouldn’t be surprised if there are a few shuttlecocks in there…We have a couple ducks who probably would have a blast with them, who knows if they play with them under the water.
I will check out the material you sent right now…
Thanks again
Scott
If I assume you are starting with close to zero chlorine in your pool, ass 2 gallons of 10% bleach to get it to 14 ppm, but check the level a few hours after you add that - you may need to add another gallon or 2. Keep it up until it stabilizes and it loses no chlorine overnight - that is how you will know when you are done.
12.5% chlorine is fine? That’s what our local pool store. We’ll do two gallons, but should we wait for the sun go down, then drop two gallons…test in a couple hours and go from there?
12.5 is even better! I might add it towards sundown; measure it again a few hours after you add it to get the level back up to at least 10 and check again in the AM. You will need to maintain that level all the time to clear it up but it will be worth it in the end.
Running steady at 9PSI on low speed, purring like a kitten.
Got water tested
Results: https://imgur.com/a/PyLczln
Recommended the same…2 gallons of chlorine…and wait and see…
Together Rich, we’ll be playing badminton in the pool in no time!!!
Sweet! I’ll bring the hot dogs and burgers! 
Just be sure to maintain that chlorine level. This will take a few days so be patient - and don’t add anything else other than the liquid chlorine. We don’t care about phosphates at all.
A BBQ for the ages!!! In the 585 (Rochester), we do white hots!!! You’re in for a treat. Nothing beats a Pop Open White Zweigle by the pool!!!
slow and steady it is…
How much pressure should be coming out of the eyeballs…obviously, night and day from Lo and Hi speed. Does it have to be powerful??
I read so many variations on how it should be positioned as well. I have it downward slightly and away from skimmer.
Teach me the way!!!
Thank you
Should I be vacuuming? Or wait until I can see the bottom? Please advise.
I assume we should do it on WASTE mode while filling the pool if the answer is yes?
