Ok.
It just occurred to me that the FAS/DPD kit you ordered came with 3/4oz bottle of R-871 reagent. Given that you are gonna be testing for up to 23 ppm of chlorine each time, you are gonna be using up to 46 drops of the R-871 reagent on each test. The 3/4oz bottle probably won’t be enough. Taylor has a 2oz bottle of R-871. It’s R-871C. If you have a local pool store see if they will order you the R-871C bottle. If not you can find it at Amazon or you can go to taylortechnologies.com and order it from them.
You will have enough of the FAS powder.
When you get ready to start, the first thing you need to do is lower the PH to 7.2. We will do this with Muriatic acid. If you don’t have any Muriatic acid you can find it at pool stores, big box building supply stores or janitorial supply stores.
If you have 14.5% MA you will need approximately 46 ounces.
If you have 31.45% MA you will need approximately 26 ounces.
But don’t add it all at once.
With the pump running, slowly pour 1/2 the amount in front of a return jet in the deep end. Don’t breathe the fumes.
Leave the pump running and in about a hour check the PH. If it is still above 7.2, add half of the remaining amount, wait for another hour and check the PH level again.
Keep doing this until you get to 7.2…and no lower than 7.0.
Once that is done you can begin the process.
The pump must run continuously until the process is complete.
You should brush the pool liner every day during the process.
Keep a close check on the filter pressure and when it says it needs to be backwashed do it.
- With the pump running, turn the SWG OFF.
- Take a free chlorine reading with the Taylor kit.
- Subtract the free chlorine reading from 23.
- Add enough liquid chlorine to bring the chlorine level up to 23 ppm.(in your pool you will need to add 13oz of 10% chlorine for each 1 ppm you need). Slowly pour the chlorine in front of a return jet in the deep end.
- Wait a couple of hours and take a new free chlorine reading. Subtract that number from 23 and add enough liquid chlorine to get the level back to 23 ppm.
**NOTE:**You can do this several times during the day depending on how much free
chlorine you are losing between readings. But you must do this at least
twice a day, once in the evening before sundown and again in the
morning near sun up.
As you continually add chlorine you will notice that you are losing less and less free chlorine between readings.
- When you reach the point where you are losing 1 ppm of free chlorine or less between the evening and morning readings you are ready to check for combined chlorine. After you do the free chlorine reading in the AM, put 5 drops of the R0003 reagent in the test water. If the sample turns pink, add the R-871 reagent drop wise until the sample turns clear. If it takes more than 1 drop of R-871 you have 1 ppm or more of combined chlorine and you need to continue the SLAM.
Once you get to the point where you are losing 1 ppm or less of free chlorine overnight AND the combined chlorine reading is .5 ppm or less AND the water is clear, you are finished with the SLAM.
At this point you can put the pump back on the timer but leave the SWG turned off until the chlorine level naturally drifts down to 7 ppm.
While the chlorine is drifting down you will need to bring the PH level back up to 7.4 - 7.6. You can do this with ordinary baking soda.
Once the free chlorine level reaches 7 ppm you can turn the SWG back on and check the free chlorine level in the early morning. If it is below 7 ppm try turning the SWG percentage up until it produces 7 ppm of free chlorine.
If you can’t get to 7 ppm of free chlorine at 100% on the SWG, you will need to run the pump longer. Or you could just supplement the chlorine that the SWG will generate with liquid chlorine.
If you have any questions before you start or during the process, let me know.
j
