I am having trouble producing chlorine from our chlorinator. All levels other than the chlorine levels are reading as being in the proper levels. Salt test strips also show the same for levels of salt. I have cleaned the cell properly and CYA levels are also proper. Other than replacing the cell is there anything else I should try first?
We’d be glad to assist you. Is the water clear or is it cloudy/green?
Cloudy and a hint of green. I shocked the pool 2 weeks ago.
The salt system probably won’t create enough chlorine to kill all of the algae. Any chlorine that it might be creating is getting used up. I’d recommend shocking the pool again with chlorine. Keep shocking it until there is no more green.
If you are still not getting any chlorine once the algae is dead, you have an issue with the salt system. What’s the make and model of the salt system?
Hayward GoldLine Aquarite 15
You can check the amperage of the cell to see if it’s operating correctly. Press the diagnostic button 3 times. There should be an amperage reading on the display. The amperage level should be 3.1-8.0. If it’s lower, the cell needs to be replaced. Normally, you’d clean the cell and check the salt level but you’ve already done that.
Also, is there any way to know the age of the salt cell? We bought the house 2 years ago so I am not sure how long the cell and chlorinator have been there.
If you find the serial number on the salt cell, you can call Hayward and they can advise you the age of the cell.
I get what appears to be an amperage reading of .04 but I am unsure as when I hit the diagnostics button other features are not working as I believe they should. I follow the directions to recalibrate salt levels but that will not work and I also do not see a “T3, T5, T15, etc.” when I believe I should on the display. Any advice?
Depending on the revision of your board, you may not see the cell options. What is the revision of your main board?
Not sure exactly what you mean by that sorry. It is an Aquarite 20, not sure if that is what you mean.
You can press the diagnostic button 7 times in order to view the revision number.
I get what looks like an r and 1.40
These are what I get when hitting the diagnostic button:
HI (salt tests at 3700 on strips)
76
32.1
0.04
100p
-0
AL-0
r 1.40
Pool pump was off at that time.
You would have to have revision 1.5 or higher to check the cell type. Does the amperage stay at .04 when the pump is running? If so, there is a good chance that the cell needs to be replaced.
Yes it does. My brother-in-law had a cell he was no longer using that is about 2 years old. I put that cell in and am getting the same results. Could it be the chlorinator itself?
It’s typically the salt cell or the main circuit board. The circuit board seems to be working correctly. However, we do have some good deals on complete systems. Check out the PureLine Crystal Pure Salt Systems https://www.inyopools.com/ProductListing/crystal-pure-salt-system.aspx
Would swapping out the old Hayward for this one be pretty straightforward? The cell size looks to be the same.
Yes, the installation should be straightforward. The salt cell should be a drop-in replacement and the wiring of the control box should be the same.