I’ve wired the motor as shown. The breaker trips as soon as I turn it on. No noise at all. Ive checked the connections and removed old push on connectors. Im not sure if the jumper is correct. Its only on one fin of l2 terminal… the black and white wire is connected to common -l2.
The motor shaft does spin easily from the rear.
Not sure what couldbe wrong as the motor is new. Thanks for your help.
The motor is wired correctly. The jumper appears to be placed in the right spot. It would sit on one fin of the L2 terminal.
Like for Like - You ordered the UST1102. Is that a direct replacement for what you had previously? The UST1102 has a total HP rating of 1.1. That 1.1 total HP rating should be equal to or greater than your original motor. Multiply HP x SF to get the total HP rating.
Confirm Voltage - Use a multimeter and confirm that you are getting 115v to the motor.
Test Start Capacitor - It’s possible that the start capacitor is bad. A bad start capacitor can cause the motor to draw excessive current, leading to the breaker to trip.
Here is a video on how to test a start capacitor.
I replaced the motor, and rewired it correctly the first time. Now it humms but does not start. Im able to spin the impeller with my fingers. I have a new circuit breaker and a new line from the motor to the junction box. Not sure what to try check now maybe its not spinning easily enough?
If it trips instantly with no sound, that usually screams either wrong voltage at the motor, a dead short in the wiring, or a capacitor issue. Once you got it to hum but not start, that’s classic bad/incorrect start cap or the motor isn’t actually getting the right supply. I’ve had this happen on a blower motor where everything “looked” right, but the cap was the wrong µF and it would just sit there humming until the breaker got angry. Also worth checking the impeller isn’t rubbing the housing once it’s tightened down, sometimes it spins fine by hand but binds under load.
If you’re getting proper voltage at the motor leads and the cap tests good, I’d look hard at how it’s actually set up for 115 vs 230 (some come pre-set different than you expect), plus any loose neutral/ground weirdness at the junction box. If you’re in Houston and don’t want to keep throwing parts at it, I’ve seen folks just call Turbo Home Services since they do same-day HVAC/plumbing and tend to be upfront about what’s actually wrong before swapping more stuff.
