We recently purchased a home in southern California with a 24, 000 gal salt pool. There are many things that show deferred maintenance, the pool equipment being one. We partially drained the pool, refilled and adjusted the salt concentration. The salt generator was not working, and our pool guy said it was the cell (t-cell-15). I did some research, cleaned the cell, then had it tested at a local pool supply store. In spite of being dated 2006, the cell is working, and the system is making chlorine, however, I need to frequently reset the salt concentration, otherwise it shows 2500 mg/L and low salt; therefore no chlorine? The water chemistry has been tested, and is 3200 mg/L. All the parameters are good, and all seems to be working well, as long as I daily recalibrate the salt concentration - otherwise low salt light is on. Also, the panel does not tell me the cell type, as the average salt level is shown on the 8th push of the diagnostics button. Do I need to replace the curcuit panel?
What you have explained would be consistent with a bad AquaRite PCB, this part commonly goes bad on the AquaRite systems. My suggestion would be to replace your PCB and if you go this route you have two options… option 1… you can go with the Hayward OEM PCB for $267 or… option #2 the Aftermarket AquaRite PCB for $167 we have had pretty good success with the Aftermarket option. Here is a video we put together on How to Replace an AquaRite PCB which you may find helpful.
Replaced 6-way valve on sand iter. When done, turned the salt enerator on and the no flow light stays on. There is flow as the watr is being returned to the pool. Checked the flow sensor and it is plugged in to the unit properly and I can find no braks in the wire.