How amy amps does a T15 cell on an Aquarite salt water chlorine generator draw?
The T15 cell has an amp range between 3.1 and 8.0 amps, so anything between this range is suitable.
Thanks. 3/4 hp 2 stage and aquarite should not be tripping the breaker. I guess I’ll check the breaker.
- Is this a new install or has this issue just started to occur?
- What amp breaker are you using?
- Also do you know which gauge wire you are running to the breaker?
Sometimes if you go to small on the wire it can run hot and cause the breaker to trip. Keep us posted.
Actually, this has been happening for a while. Especially after the Aquarite install. The wire from the 20 amp breaker looks like it is either 14 or 16 guage.
It sounds like since you are now having both your pump and your Aquarite on the 20 amp breaker that this is too much for the breaker, since before the AquaRite all was fine and after the AquaRite installation the breaker is tripping. You may want to go up to a 30 amp breaker but most likely you will need to go with a thicker gauge wire going from the pump to the breaker and the Aquarite to the breaker. I am not an electrician so I would research the proper breaker size and proper wire size based on the amp draw of these two pieces of equipment. I found this Post on Pool Pump Breaker & Wire Sizing which you may find helpful.
Ok so first off what is the name plate of the pump menaing the FLA or Full load amps of the motor? What is the motors voltage 120V or 220V? The aquarite generator uses the high voltage menaing 120v or 220v and converts it into low voltage so the draw coming from the 120v source or 220v source are going to be minimal the 3.1 -8 amps is gerator at low voltage and not at the 120/220V side so this piece of equipment ahould not have an impact on your circuit. First tell me th evoltage of the motor and the amperage on the motor name plate. Next the aquarite is shipped from the factory set up for 220V not 120V if your pump is 220v check and make sure the jumpers on the quarite are set up for 220v Any cicruit utilizing a 20 amp breaker should have #12 gauge copper wire from the breaker to the equipment and lastly make sure your aqurite and pump are bonded correctly using an externa; solid #8 as it is required. Get me that little info and we will take it from there.
I just had the same problem start happening after several years of having a 1-HP Hayward Super Pump SP1600 series and Aquarite T15 without incident. FLA of the motor is 15.0A when running at 115V. The breaker only trips when it is starting up AND the Aquarite’s cell is connected. If I disconnect the cell from the Aquarite panel, the breaker does not trip.
Again, this only started happening 5 days ago. I tried changing all the seals in the pump and it isn’t noisy (I remember the previous motor getting much noisier before it quit), but I do notice a slight delay (<1 second) when I give the pump motor power before it starts pumping water.
I’m thinking that the motor is just getting old and drawing too much current and I should replace it, but wanted to see if there are any other things I should check before taking that step. Could it be that the Aquarite is drawing much more current than it should for some reason, or that the capacitor for the motor is shot and I should just replace that?
Thanks for any advice out there!
Hi Ajit, the motor getting older and drawing too much current is possible (from the start or run capacitor as well as the windings), but I would also check the salt level of the pool (and the age of the salt cell) to make sure it is functioning properly. Too much salt in the pool will make the water more conductive and draw more amps. Use a good test kit to measure the salt level in the pool, as the salt cells are not terribly accurate and will read lower than the actual salt levels as they age.
It is also possible that the breaker needs to be replaced. They can get weaker and more sensitive with age. An ammeter will help you get to the root of the issue.
Let us know how it goes!